Trekking

“No pain, no gain.”

 

Namaste for Trekking in Nepal:

Remember these words when you’re tackling Nepal’ rugged hill terrain, especially when you get caught in the rain.

For the hardy trekker who takes to the mountains this time of year for trekking, weather is just part of game. It may shine; it may rain. Both have their rewards. Clear skies’ advantages are obvious, unbeatable views of greatest mountains on earth. But what are the advantages of rain?

In the summer rains, the mountains come alive. Green valley’s open into fields of blooming wildflowers; sky-blue poppies and gentians, purple irises, star-studded white edelweiss, yellow asters; a slight lavender tinge on the snow rhododendrons and alpine lowers are sprayed on moss covered granite mountains. You can lie in the lush green carpets of grass, just lie, and smell the flowers. You can roll in the fields of wild clover like a child.

And best of all, no crowds compete with your pleasure.

 

 

  Nature’s Balance:

The rainy season is already here; it generally rains from mid-June through September, most heavily in July and August. But as every hiker knows, weather is fickle as a feather. Especially in a monsoon climate.

Nepal’s monsoon rains originate in the Bay of Bengal bearing on winds front the south-east. They hit first and hardest in the east and spread westward. The question is whether to trek in the drier west, or ‘go for it’ in the east where at this time, there are many beautiful flower nearing plants.

Part of the adventure of monsoon trekking is the mountain weather, which in summer changes moment to moment. The usual daytime pattern in the hills is clear mornings, with light rain coming around noon. Thunderstorms often develop in the late afternoons bringing downpours. The hills from 800 to 2000 meters receive the most rain; above that it snows up to a point, and still higher, peaks are above the clouds.

But regardless of planning around statistics, trekking in monsoon can be just a matter of luck. You may catch a weather ‘break’ or you may walk in rain for days. At times the clouds’ part to reveal glistening white glaciers against blue, blue skies. And at others, mist shrouded mountains seem captured by magic and mystery. There are times when you won’t be able to see beyond the soggy trail and you’re dripping poncho.

Remember nature deals in balances, not conveniences. For every positive, there is negative. In winter you can walk across streams on rocks of bridges; in monsoon, you may have to take off your boots and roll up your pants, or in some places, cross a river in an open box, being pulled along a steel cable. The trails may be slippery and muddy in places, parts even washed away. Some trails provide higher alternatives, but you or your guide must know where they are.

Land and the climate:

On a flat, forested stretch in the Langtang Valley on a monsoon trek, I was conversing with my friend when he just disappeared as if through an unseen trap door. He had slipped off on eroded trail and fallen some 10 meters. Just like that.

Probably the most distasteful aspect of monsoon trekking is the leeches. Long, worm-like creatures about 2-4 centimeters in the length and of varying fatness, they dangle from the lush vegetation, lurk under wet leaves or on damp ground, and wait for unsuspecting trekkers. They are abundant in forests above 1200 meters (4000 feet) and are seldom found above 3500 meters. They slide smoothly into T-shirt collars, trouser cuffs and the rims of socks. You feel nothing, except perhaps a cool sensation when, like Count Dracula, they attack and consume your blood.

But unlike the malevolent Count, leeches are more annoying than harmful. Nevertheless, you should watch for signs of infection later. Take some commercial mosquito repellent available in trekking shops or remove them by applying iodine or salt to their heads. Some people burn the bodies with the match, causing the leech to drop off. Tuck pant cuffs inside your socks and soak your sock tops in salt. Now and then, check your body for leeches, particularly your arms, legs and neck. During one summer trek, I found only four on my body through the entire week, while another group on the same trail was infested with them. Part of your luck depends on your time of travel. Leeches abound on shrubs, trees and grasses on rainy days, and dispensary when the sun comes out. Don’t stand around in wet places or you’ll be invade din a matter of minutes.

 

                   BE PREPARED:

If properly prepared for rain or shine, you can certainly trek this time of year and enjoy it. Whether you travel on your own, staying in village lodges (called “tea house trekking”), or hire a guide, cook and porters and travel “inclusively” depends on your budget and the availability of the food and lodging where you are headed.

There are some monsoons trekking advice:

*       Ascend hikes provided guide, cook and porters, but eating in local inns exposes use trekking can be cheaper than going with an agent you to more bacterial agents in improperly treated food and water. Agencies’ cools are trained in trekkers’ hygiene and take pains to see that you eat well and eat safely.

*       Hire a guide. A guide knows the trails and their alternatives. He or she will also know the places to stay or camp and be able to ward off unwanted visitors.

*      If walking unaccompanied or with an unfamiliar person, be cautious with your belongings and personal security. Trekking alone is not advisable. If an accident occurs, no one may be around to asst you. Contracting within established trekking agent assures you that should problems arise between you and your staff, or if you or your staff fall ill, the agent will take responsible action.

*     Keep one set of dry clothes and socks for the evening. Evening chili is even chillier when you are wet. Put on your cold, clammy clothes in the morning; body heat will warm them up quickly. Pack all your belongings in plastic sacks. Plastic of various sizes and thickness is available in Kathmandu or Pokhara marketplaces.

If you are planning to stay in local lodge, be aware that some are closed during the rainy season. In such, be as self-sufficient as possible, just in case. Carry a sleeping bag, a tent, kerosene stove, a pot and some freeze-dried food if you are going off the beaten track. If you are in an organized group, all of this will have been taken care of; of course.

*    Bring leech repellent and salt, and most important, a first aid kit.

*    Rain gear for you, your pack and your hired staff is imperative. Umbrellas, nylon ponchos, or Gore-Tex jackets and pants; everybody has a different opinion about what works best. Your body can’t breathe properly through nylon rain gear; thus, you can get too warm and soaked with sweat while walking. Gore-Tex is waterproof and breathes but is more expensive. Some people prefer a loose poncjo that can fit over you and your pack.

*     Consult trekking agents and local travelers regarding current information about trails, as landslides may have removed critical portions.

 

 

WHERE TO GO:

If you want avoid rains, the best advice is head north or go west. North of the Himalaya’s main crest line, inner valleys stay drier in the “rain shadow”. West of Pokhara, the rain begins to peter out.

You cannot always adhere to a rigid timetable, so allow extra days for the unforeseen- a detour, or spending an afternoon or two in a dry shelter. If you want a short, pleasant trek- a week in the hill country- you may not see as many flowers. If it’s “flowers or bust,” you will have to allow at least two weeks to get into higher, more remote areas.

You may try one of the following trekking routes this season:

Annapurna Trails:

  1. The west side of the Annapurna region from Pokhara to Jomsom varies in both culture and terrain. You’ll meet Thakalis, Gurungs and Manangis as the prevalent peoples. The vegetation and climate change with elevation from sub-tropical to alpine. As these areas is the most popular trekking destination in Nepal, access by foot is relatively easy from Pokhara. Tea shops and inns offer comfortable lodging and unexpected menu treats, the route’s nickname, “The Apple Pie Trekking”.

There are several major trail systems in the Annapurna area. The last rainy route follows the Kali Gandaki River, whose valley drops 5000 meters in vertical elevation between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna range and is thus the world’s deepest gorge. Villages cling precipitously to hillsides as if to defy gravity, cold, dry winds from Tibetan plateau rush through the valley and mingle with the warm moist air from the south, creating ever-changing weather and the need for all-weather clothes.

If you have about three weeks to trek, you can make it from Pokhara to Jomsom (3100 meters elevation) and back. During monsoon, RNAC stops flights to Jomsom so there’s no chance to fly out. Lower trails between Ghorapani and Ghandruk rise from 1000 meters to 3000 meters elevation. When clouds part, you are treated the spectacle of Machhapuchhre (Fish Tail Peak), and the Annapurna range at 7500 meters. This shorter route will take eight to ten days, beginning and ending in Pokhara.

Langtang and Gosaikunda Trekking:

  1. North of Kathmandu lies the langtang Valley, known for its oak and maple forests and views of Langtang Himal, rising to 7250 meters. Its valleys are colorful blazes of summer wildflowers and soft green grass. The trails wind around three raging rivers: The Trisuli, The Bhote Kosi and The Langtang Khola. From 700 meters at Trisuli Bazar to 3000 meters at Kanchen Gompa/ the trail passes through changing climates and cultures. The valley is peopled with Tamangs at its sourthern end, and Sherpas and Tibetan in the north.

On return from langtang Valley a side trip or even a return route via Gosainkund lakes is possible and definitely worthwhile. The lakes are the site of a yearly full-moon Hindu festival, Janai Purnima, this year to be held on August 17th, when thousands of devotees from Nepal and India pilgrimage to bathe in these 4360 meters lakes and to worship Lord Shiva.

If you plan to visit Gosainkund, be self-sufficient with food and shelter for at least one day. There is one lodge at the lakes, but it may be closed during monsoon season. From Gosainkund, you can return to Syabru and back to Trisuli, or cross Laurebina Pass (3901 meters) and descend through Helambu, a 4-5 day a walk back to the Kathmandu Valley. Snow is possible at the pass so be prepared with warm clothing.

 

Biggest Lake in Nepal Rara:

A seldom visited though rewarding trekking Nepal’s far west is to Rara lake. The trek offers a perfect combination of cultural history, natural beauty and an exercise in getting along with others. It is also one of the driest treks for monsoon season.

Rara, 3000 meters high and 550 meters deep, is Nepal’s largest lake. From the lake’s edge you can see snow-capped peaks and magnificent stands of fir, pine spruce, juniper, ceder, birch and rhododendron. You are likely to see wild cats and deer in this protected National Park.

Idyllic though it may be, Rara is hard to reach. The most common take-off point is Jumla. Most people prefer to fly in and out of Jumla, but flight schedules are unpredictable. On the way out, you can walk seven days to Surkhet, catch a bus to Nepalgunj and fly or take a sixteen-hour bus ride to Kathmandu. You must be self-sufficient in terms of food and shelter for this trek all the way from Kathmandu; trekking food is in short supply even in Jumla. It is advisable to hire a guide as this is a relatively um trekked route, the trail being not so evident and villagers unaccustomed to showing the way.

 

 

A Guide once told me that the Himalayan peaks are more beautiful than any woman because a pretty woman has but one face, while Himalayan peak has many. The mountains show a special face in monsoon, often shy and veiled, but when uncovered, whiter and more spectacular than her other countenances. That is the monsoon trekker’s reward, Thank you.

 

Namaste!!!

 

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